Bethlehem celebrates first Christmas tree lighting since war as pilgrims slowly return

BETHLEHEM, West Bank (OSV News) — Bethlehem rejoiced with the festive celebration of lighting of a 65-feet Christmas tree at the edge of Manger Square Dec. 6 — for the first time since December 2022 and the start of Israel-Hamas war 10 months later. While the number of pilgrims in the birthplace of Jesus is still modest compared to pre-war years, those who arrived during Advent felt blessed.

For Nataly Taratuta, a pilgrim from Ukraine, being at the traditional site of Jesus’s birth as one of the few pilgrims in the silence of the grotto of the Church of the Nativity was like a sacred privilege.

Having made the almost two-day long journey from her own war-torn Ukraine — including a 24-hour train ride to Warsaw — Taratuta, 50, prayed for peace for Ukraine, for the Palestinians and Israelis, for the entire world, and in particular for the safety and health of her children and daughter-in-law as she kneeled to touch the silver star marking the spot.

“I can’t express in words the sacred way I feel,” she said. “I am praying for all of us, and for peace in the world. Peace in this sacred place. There are so many clashes and contradictions, if only people could live in peace and friendship. I am so happy it was not crowded so I had time to pray and worship.”

Tourists and pilgrims are slowly beginning to return to Bethlehem following the implementation in October of the Trump-brokered ceasefire between Israel and Hamas following two years of war in Gaza, with two or three buses of visitors a day and small groups of individual pilgrims coming to the Church of the Nativity as Christmas approaches.

Taratuta said she and her small group of friends had made the “strategic planning” to come to the Holy Land two months ago following the ceasefire.

“It is a very special experience,” said her friend Anna Tverdokhlib, 30, who is also originally from Ukraine but now lives in Belgium. “We have a little bit of comparison with suffering from this situation … When we are here in the Palestinian area my heart is in peace and we are supporting these people. I hope to see more tourists coming back bit by bit.”

All Christmas festivities, other than the traditional religious ceremonies, had been previously canceled in light of the war in Gaza, but on Dec. 6 thousands of mostly local residents attended the official Christmas tree lighting ceremony for the first time in two years. Festive holiday lights flashed above the crowd, “Santas” handed out candied apples, and families took pictures in front of the twinkling tree and the Nativity scene creche.

Ranya Malki Bandak, the director of the Bethlehem Peace Center at Manger Square, which is tasked with arranging the Christmas celebrations, said it was a scramble to prepare everything for the tree lighting ceremony after such short notice had been given following the signing of the ceasefire — and despite continuing conflict in Gaza. At the weekend the traditional Christmas market will be held at Nativity Square and other events will also take place leading up to Christmas, she said.

“The Bethlehem Peace Center staff did a great job. The lighting is a huge event to put together in such a short time. Bethlehem is Christmas and Christmas is Bethlehem. We have been waiting for it despite everything going on in Gaza, we are looking for hope and peace,” she said.

“We can’t forget everything (that is happening in Gaza), it is not easy, but this is for peace and love and Christmas here,” she continued. “People are so happy waiting for it. We are seeing a few tourists coming, and we are starting to see signs of life after that. We have to light a candle despite everything, to light a candle for everyone. This land is light. Bethlehem is Christmas, and we hope for a better situation next year.”

She said that local hotels were receiving more reservations — for now mainly from Arab citizens of Israel, but also from international pilgrims groups beginning in February 2026.

Italian pilgrim Jean Luca noted that his pilgrimage these days after the war was important because for the first time in two years the lights of the Christmas tree were shining in a sign of peace and hope.

“It is very important for us to celebrate for hope and peace and for this to be the opportunity to celebrate here with all people staying in peace from different countries and different religions,” he said.

At the Bethlehem St. Catherine parish office waiting to receive tickets to the traditional midnight Mass, local resident Nadeera Sleibi, an English and French teacher at the Rosary Sisters School, said that while she was very happy to watch the Christmas tree lighting ceremony, the real joy came from the traditional celebration of Christmas, which brought God into their hearts.

“With war or without war we are very happy on Christmas,” she said. “Because Jesus Christ comes every year on Dec. 24 and 25. He brings peace to this land because he is the Prince of Peace.”

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